Großglockner over Glocknerwand

From the Stüdlhütte, you first climb more steeply in a northerly direction up to the Teischnitzkees. The wide glacier surface is now crossed much more flatly to the northwest. At an altitude of about 3340 m, you reach the next glacier, the Fruschnitzkees. There you turn north and climb a firn slope to the ridge between Teufelskamp (left) and Hofmannspitze (right).

Now follow the northwest ridge to the Hofmannspitze (3715 m), the first ridge tower of the Glocknerwand. In the following, all six other ridge towers, which are separated from each other by embrasures, are crossed one after the other. The second tower, the Pöschlturm, at 3722 m is considered the highest elevation. The fourth to seventh ridge towers form the crown of the Glocknerwand. Finally, you climb via the southeast ridge to the Untere Glocknerscharte (3596 m), where a rappel point of just under ten meters facilitates the descent.

After the Glocknerscharte, the rock tooth of the Teufelshorn is bypassed on the south side. Continue climbing over the Glocknerhorn (3680 m) to the Grögerschneide (3660 m). Finally, the upper northwest ridge leads up to the highest peak of Austria.

For the descent, you first descend over rock slabs to the airy Obere Glocknerscharte (steel rope) and then cross the Kleinglockner (safety poles) again with greater exposure. Afterward, a steep gully leads down to the left to the wide Glocknerleitl ridge, which leads southeast to the Erzherzog Johann Hut. From the hut, follow the steep, steel-rope-secured rock ridge to the so-called Kampl, where steel ropes again lead down to the right (west) over rocky slopes to the Ködnitzkees. The glacier is crossed in the same direction (watch out for crevasses). Then turn left (South) and descend straight down the gentle glacier basin. Finally, the rock spur is bypassed on the left, before a traverse to the right leads to the staircase.