Großglockner over Glocknerwand
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The ascent of the Glocknerwand in combination with the north-west ridge ascent to the Großglockner could well be called the "King's Route" of the Stüdlhütte.
However, this difficult, exposed and long climbing route places the highest demands on alpine skills. The glacier passages should not be underestimated in terms of crevasses, nor should the descent via the normal route, which is much easier but still involves a risk of falling.
You can shorten the entire route somewhat by spending the night at the Erzherzog Johann Hütte after the descent to the summit.
The ridge traverse is often very exposed and has difficulties up to IV+. You need a lot of experience with rope belaying on ridges (keyword: walking on the running rope), as you cannot belay the entire course of the ridge rope for rope. Only undertake in stable mountain weather! In addition, the danger of crevasses on the glaciers must be taken into account.
Tips and hints
From the Stüdlhütte, you first climb more steeply in a northerly direction up to the Teischnitzkees. The wide glacier surface is now crossed much more flatly to the northwest. At an altitude of about 3340 m, you reach the next glacier, the Fruschnitzkees. There you turn north and climb a firn slope to the ridge between Teufelskamp (left) and Hofmannspitze (right).
Now follow the northwest ridge to the Hofmannspitze (3715 m), the first ridge tower of the Glocknerwand. In the following, all six other ridge towers, which are separated from each other by embrasures, are crossed one after the other. The second tower, the Pöschlturm, at 3722 m is considered the highest elevation. The fourth to seventh ridge towers form the crown of the Glocknerwand. Finally, you climb via the southeast ridge to the Untere Glocknerscharte (3596 m), where a rappel point of just under ten meters facilitates the descent.
After the Glocknerscharte, the rock tooth of the Teufelshorn is bypassed on the south side. Continue climbing over the Glocknerhorn (3680 m) to the Grögerschneide (3660 m). Finally, the upper northwest ridge leads up to the highest peak of Austria.
For the descent, you first descend over rock slabs to the airy Obere Glocknerscharte (steel rope) and then cross the Kleinglockner (safety poles) again with greater exposure. Afterward, a steep gully leads down to the left to the wide Glocknerleitl ridge, which leads southeast to the Erzherzog Johann Hut. From the hut, follow the steep, steel-rope-secured rock ridge to the so-called Kampl, where steel ropes again lead down to the right (west) over rocky slopes to the Ködnitzkees. The glacier is crossed in the same direction (watch out for crevasses). Then turn left (South) and descend straight down the gentle glacier basin. Finally, the rock spur is bypassed on the left, before a traverse to the right leads to the staircase.
By train first via Wörgl to Kitzbühel. From there take bus 950X to "Huben in Osttirol, Ort" and bus 920 to the stop "Kals am Großglockner, Abzw. Burg". Finally, take bus 920 again to the bus stop "Kals am Großglockner, Lucknerhaus". (Only runs in summer. Current connections: www.oebb.at)
By roadVia Kufstein and Kitzbühl to Mittersill. Here follow the Felberntauern Road (toll) and via Matrei to Huben. There turn left to Kals and continue on the Kalser Glocknerstrasse (toll) to Lucknerhaus.
ParkingCar park at Lucknerhaus.
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Complete high altitude touring and alpine climbing equipment.
- 7 Waypoints
- 7 Waypoints
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